Introduction
The period of my service in Chitral remains a part of my memorable treasure. Some details of Chitral’s spellbinding natural beauty were highlighted in my previous article.
The northern border of Chitral runs with TAJIKISTAN (previously part of the USSR) but separated by the AMU DARYA, which flows down from its water shed in the PAMIRS (known as the roof of the world), over a thin tongue like area of Afghanistan. The river eventually falls into the ARAL Sea (also called the Lake ARAL).
In this article a few salient events of the siege of Chitral (March-April 1895), some interesting facts about the Black Kafirs and the love story of YAREMUNN HAMEEN-SAYYAR, which are based on my visits to the relevant areas and interviews of some old men are being discussed.
The Siege of Chitral
During Oct-Nov 1951 I visited Chitral city, the capital of Chitral state situated in beautiful surroundings close to the western bank of the roaring river Chitral. The fort (called NIGHOR) looked strong and impressive due to its masonry work but some ruins of the walls of the outhouses pertaining to the period of the siege were still visible. I met ATTALIQUE, a confidant of the late grand old Mehtar SHUJA-UL-MULK (nicknamed ‘Sugar and Milk’ by the British soldiers) and an adviser to the present Mehtar, was over 60 years. He told me that at the time of the siege he was abut 8 years old and from a distance would secretly watch the activities of the besiegers and heard firing of both the sides. According to him most of the locals had disappeared into the far distance valleys. When Shuja-ul-Mulk (a lad of about 14 years) was intalled as the Mehtar, after the siege, he was present and employed in the fort as errand boy. But with his unblemished loyalty and wisdom, he rose to become an adviser.
Historical Background
Dir and Chitral had been rivals since long. The Chitralis were at the mercy of the ruler of Dir because the only route to Chitral (CHAKDARA to LOWARI) passed through the territory of the ruler of Dir who was always on the lookout to create impediment and sent extravagant demands. Despite some matrimonial alliances the relation often remained strained.
Chitral was a part of the British Indian and the Mehtar’s rule over Chitral remained under the protection of the British India Government. Also a handsome monthly/yearly grant in cash was paid to the Mehtar. A small garrison of troops commanded by British officers and a political officer constantly remained present as adviser and watched the interest of the British government. A garrison also remained present in MASTUJ, GUBIS and DROSH for the security of the main routes. The political officer was known as MULKI by the Chitralis.
Chitrali Fort
Chitrali Fort was the main building and residence of the Mehtar in which his treasury, armoury and essential stores were kept. Ration items that were sufficient to last few weeks for the garrison, Mehtar’s family members and entourage also were present there. The fort was 70 yards square, its walls were 25 feet high and 8 feet thick of stones, rubble and mud, and held by a cradle work of timber. There were four towers in each corner and a fifth tower was guarding the covered path to the river. As there was not enough food for a longer siege as such scale of ration was curtailed.
Struggle for seizing Mehtar ship
On 30th August 1892 due to the sudden death of the Mehtar AMAN-UL-MULK violence and intrigue prevailed and a struggle between the late Mehtar’s sons issued to secure Mehtarship. The eldest son Nizam-ul-Mulk was absent from Chitral but another son Afzal-ul-Mulk seized the arms and treasure and declared himself Mehtar. In November 1892 Sher Afzal, a brother of the late Mehtar secretly arrived from Afghanistan in Chitral, murdered Afzal-ul-Mulk and proclaimed himself Mehtar, but the troops of Sher Afzal deserted him and he fled back to Afghanistan. During the struggle for power UMRA KHAN of Dir with his troops crossed the Lowari Pass and advanced up to Drosh, occupied it and continued advance towards Chitral town.
On 1st February 1895 Surgeon Major (Indian Medical service) Robertson arrived with his detachment and also brought SHUJA-UL-MULK, a younger son of the late Mehtar. In view of the imminent danger the detachments employed away from Chitral were ordered by Maj Robertson to join the fort garrison. The total strength was about 400 soldiers. On 4th March Umara Khan’s troops and the Chitrali force of Sher Afzal (2000 to 5000 strong) surrounded the fort and demanded surrender. Firing continued from both sides.
The attackers made several attempts to capture the fort but the ever alert troops in the fort repulsed them in the process inflicting casualties. A tunnel was being dug secretly but hearing the sounds of excavation the area was raided which achieved complete surprise. The incomplete tunnel was blown off and the enemy troops and the excavation party were killed. The besiegers freely shouted abuses and insults which were replied by a soldier who was an expert at devising and shouting loudly insults in the language understood by the besiegers.
Here the interesting survival of Lieut Edward’s dog named Biddy is being narrated. Biddy was shot during the fighting at RESHUN (MASTUJ Valley) during March 1895 and due to the serious nature of injury he was not expected to survive. Lieut Edwards was captured during a polo game but on his request he was allowed to keep Biddy in captivity. After his release Edwards was awarded DSO for his conduct during the relief of Chital; Biddy received the Indian General Service Medal with the clasp ‘Relief of Chitral’.
Two relief columns were moving with speed from Chitral to help the besieged troops under Surgeon Major Robertson. Col Kelly was commanding the relief column, with 32 Punjab Pioneers, Levies from Hunza, Nagar, Gilgit and two artillery guns. After crossing the SHANDUR Pass on 7th April 1895 made its presence felt, reached MASTUJ and continued advancing.
The main Chitral relief force under Lieut Gen ROBERT LOW had commenced moving from Peshawar-Nowshera, Malakand, Chakdara, Dir and Lowari Pass. Its strength was about 15000 troops, some 9000 civilians followers and 30000 transport animals (mules, horses and camels) were also part of the relief force.
The enemy had also received information about both the relief columns. On 18th April 1895 a man came close to the fort was and shouted that the besiegers had retired and disappeared. This was also confirmed by patrols. Kelly’s columns reached Chitral on 20th April 1895.
All the officers, some VCOs and men were awarded for their exemplary conduct and acts of valour during the siege. After the wounding of Capt CAMPBELL, Capt TOWNSEND was appointed as the senior military commander to Major Robertson of the Chitral fort garrison. He was promoted as Major and awarded CB. During 1897 he fought in the battle of OMDURMAN against MEHDI SUDDANI whose troops were armed with swords, lances, arrow and a few muzzle loader (primitive) rifles. He was awarded the DSO. He was GOC 6th Indian Division during the First World War in MESOPOTAMIA but was forced to surrender with the entire force at KUT to the Turks. His conduct of operation was criticized by the higher command and military historians.
The Black Kafirs – KALASH
I also visited the Kafir valleys of BAREER and BOMBERET. I crossed the river Chitral on horseback over a suspension bridge because even a jeep was not allowed to cross it, via AYUN (a beautiful village surrounded by lush green fields and orchards laden with fruit) and over the hill the horse carried me to the Bareer Valley of Black Kafirs. To start with, it was a tough climb but after some miles we reached an open area. I saw a number of houses in a valley with green hillocks in the background.
On seeing us (about a dozen soldiers as guard and mules laden with luggage, etc) men and women sitting around a charpoy rose and greeted us by raising their hands. We saw a dead body lying on the charpoy. As the wind blew towards us it brought with it unbearable stench of the decomposed dead body. We retreated a few yards to avoid the odour. Upon inquiry it was disclosed by an elder Kafir that it was the dead body of ASAQAL (head man of the Valley) and on the completion of ceremony his son would be installed in his place by the BEETAN (the religious head, judge and hakim of the valley). Most of the women and men sitting around the dead body were weeping and crying. Suddenly they got up with the beat of drum (TUNBURIK), started dancing around the dead body by catching each others hand. The BEETAN kept murmuring their prayer and one by one they came and kissed the hands of Beetan. Then they shifted the dead body into a wooden box and buried it into an already dug grave. A 6 feet long plank with ornamental engraving was dug in vertically to indicate the grave of the ASAQAL.
The Black Kafirs call themselves KALASH. According to one source, a part of ALEXANDER’s army, after crossing the AMU DARYA climbed the hills and entered Chitral. Some stragglers and deserters captivated by the natural beauty of Chitral decided to stay and married local women. They looked like the Chitralis, some had blue eyes, fair colour and brown hair. It is possible that their forefathers were of Greek origin. According to them there was some power above in the sky who controlled the universe. For centuries they have preserved some of their customs and faith. But their population has dwindled due to gradual conversion to Islam.
According to interviews of some elder Kafirs, the following festivals were being celebrated:
PURR – When the crop of grapes was ready, the entire population would sit around a bonfire, dance, drink and sing. The Beetan would be present in this celebration.
CHELUMJASH – Celebrated at the advent of the spring season during April. All their houses would be cleaned, goat milk collected for ten days and on the last day the population would collect outside the village, dance, drink and enjoy feast on butter, cheese, milk and meat. The date coincides with Easter holidays of the Christians.
UCHAL – It was celebrated in the MOLOSH (Kafir temple. Perhaps it is corruption of the English word MOLOCH, meaning Canaanite idol to whom children were sacrificed). Whosoever visited MALOSH would have to sacrifice a goat/sheep in the presence of the Beetan.
CHITTAR MAST – Celebrated during the last week of December. All the male members of families would move with goats to the hills whereas the female members stayed back. If a fox was seen in the hills it would be considered a good omen for the entire year. On 1st January the men would come down and the entire population would gather, dance, drink and enjoy delicious meals.
A few yards away from the village a lonely house was called BASHALINI where women would remain for some days for the delivery of children and also spend their menstruation period.
A shameful custom of the Kafirs as mentioned to me was the selection of the strong man of the Valley called BUDHALUCK. He would be sent to the hills for some weeks and live on butter, cheese and milk. For the celebration of the festival of PURR he would come down. The entire population would collect around a bonfire, bunches of green and purple grapes would be presented to all. BUDHALUCK would be sitting next to the Beetan and Asaqal. Particularly the women would appear in their best dresses. Drinking of grape wine and dancing would continue. During the dance Budhaluck would be at liberty to select any woman, take her some distance away and return after few minutes. After a few drinks he would continue taking female partners until he was flat out. Adultrine offsprings were considered strong and brave. After some weeks I met an ex-Budhaluck who confirmed everything that had been told to me by the elder Kafirs.
The Romantic, but tragic story of MASTUJ
About 100 miles north of Drosh the beautiful valley of Mastuj is situated. The river Mastuj passes through the valley and on both sides of the river banks the villages of Reshun and Showgram are located. About 250 years ago the handsome youthful son of the headman of Showgram was known for his boldness. He was a born poet and would compose poetry sitting in meadows, watching the glittering rays of the sun over the snow covered high hills, sitting near waterfalls and plants that were abundant with fragrant flowers. The dashing waves of the river Mastuj against rocks, the rising sun and the moon peeping through clouds would also inspire him to compose poetry.
His poetry had become popular among the young men and damsels but his loneliness had become a concern for his parents. Damsels of his village would pass near him, throw pebbles and flowers to tease him but he never retaliated, not even glanced at them. The beautiful, charming but naughty HAYYA was the daughter of the headman of RESHUN. She had also heard about the poetry of SAYYAR. Both the villages were linked with a thirty feet long wooden foot bridge over the river. HAYYA, known as YARE MUN HAMEE, had not seen Sayyar but she knew that he often visited her village to watch the snow covered TRICH MIR.
One evening SAYYAR was sitting near a spring of Reshun watching the sun setting behind the hills. HAYYA had also come with some friends to draw water from that spring. On seeing the beautiful face of HAYYA he murmured poetry praising her beauty. Her friends disclosed that SAYYAR was sitting near the spring but soon they left with their pitchers. On hearing SAYYAR’s name, HAYYA looked up and to avoid his glance threw a pebble at him but in return his captivating smile, handsome face and manly stature drew her heart towards him; it was love at sight.
It was dusk when suddenly a snow leopard appeared from behind and growling, jumped towards HAYYA. With total disregard for danger SAYYAR stood in front of the beast, used his fists, grappled with it with utmost force and threw it on the ground. The leopard’s long claws tore SAYYAR’s skin and at the shoulder from where blood started dripping but with lightning speed he struck his dagger deep into the chest of the beast. After a few minutes of growling it was dead. HAYYA had watched the fight with surprise and fear but now her heart was full of praise and love for SAYYAR. On seeing the blood dripping from his wound, she tore a piece of her dupatta and tied it around his shoulder. Her twinkling eyes acknowledged his boldness and smiling shyness conveyed her love for him.
SAYYAR accompanied her up to the village. His act of valour was seen from a distance by HAYYA’s friends and soon this news was known to the people of both the villages. SAYYAR composed a poem about her rose like cheeks, long hair, shining blue eyes and tender feet. Now daily SAYYAR would sit near that spring, wait for HAYYA who would come secretly before dusk, meet him, listen to his romantic poems and return home when it was dark. The reason for her frequent absence for long hours was known to her parents and immediately they married her to a young man. But despite restrictions and beatings she would call SAYYAR’s name and slip away quietly. SAYYAR’s parents were equally worried and tried to dissuade him but he ignored them and kept on visiting HAYYA’s village.
One winter night, it was biting cold and snowing but SAYYAR left his village, crossed the bridge, sat near the spring because HAYYA was expected to come. He was completely covered with snow flakes but would not seek cover. At midnight HAYYA appeared and soon she was also covered with snow flakes. SAYYAR was reciting his latest poetry when footsteps were heard and they bid being a boulder. They decided to run for the bridge, reached it but from the village of SAYYAR some people were heard shouting his name. Parties of both the villages had reached on their end of the bridge. The ropes tied to hold the bridge were cut with axes and the bridge fell into the river taking with it, the two lovers. The next morning when the weather became clear the dead bodies were found holding hands. They were buried in separate graves.
Bibliography
The above is based on my reminiscences and my personal diary covering the period 1951 – 1952. I have also consulted the following:
1. Chitral, the Story of a minor siege by Sir George Robertson
2. With Kelly to Chitral by Lieut Beynon
3. The Relief of Chitral by Capt Younghusband and Col Francis Younghusband
